Restaurant Review: Your Mom’s Donuts

Michael Hall ‘19

Food correspondent

My friend and I arrived at 12:30 on a Saturday to half of the donuts already sold out, as well as the coffee, so we took what we could get and headed elsewhere for coffee before diving in. Offering a half-dozen donuts for just under twenty dollars, we chose chocolate with sprinkles (textbook), vanilla, dark chocolate, salted caramel, Almond Joy (the butcher’s favorite), and cinnamon sugar with cream cheese frosting (the dark horse among these perfectly square pastries). Assumedly part of Your Mom’s style, all the donuts offered are yeast donuts: lighter, fluffier, and with a web of glutinous delight akin to stalagmites in a cave, these yeasted donuts pack a sweeter, less-satiating punch than cake donuts. Evenly fried on both sides, all of the donuts sported the respected pale belt around their waists that signals properly proofed dough, something anyone who has gone through ten packets of yeast and failed foamy mixtures can appreciate.

We began with the chocolate-icing donut adorned with sprinkles, a staple on any self-respecting donut menu. Although my benchmark was admittedly high, influenced by fifteen minutes of nostalgic dreaming since ordering, this donut quickly became our least favorite. Mouthfuls of the soft and yielding donut were rudely interrupted by what felt like rainbow airsoft pellets in the mouth (worth testing); an absolute absence of tenderness in the sprinkles entirely ruined the donut’s mouthfeel.

Reinvigorated by coffee and my friend’s positive energy, I washed my mouth of these seemingly-stale sprinkles and moved on to the vanilla bean. Two donuts in and it became obvious that there was no tampering with the dough, leaving changes in icing as the categorizing element. The vanilla bean was the best icing of the six: slack enough to flood the mouth while still retaining a crust on top to add subtle texture. We followed up with the dark chocolate donut, a close second to the vanilla bean. Despite the potential to swindle customers with a three-dollar donut (because it’s dark chocolate), there was an actual bitterness that justified the name and didn’t leave us concerned about cavities.

 Moving on to the more “adventurous” donuts: the salted caramel could have been relabeled as a glazed donut without raising an eyebrow; there was not a grain of salt in the glaze nor hint of the deep, rich flavor of caramel. The Almond Joy came with two slivered almonds and had a coconut icing so faint in flavor it best serves coconut-ambivalent eaters rather than coconut lovers (like myself). 

The cinnamon sugar donut with cream cheese frosting was the only donut of the half dozen where more than simply the icing was changed. A dusting of cinnamon sugar added a distinction against the other five donuts and made the donut our favorite, despite the small log of icing piped on top. All six donuts had a faint whiff of yeast that was nice, but disappointing toppings have left me only wanting to return to Your Mom’s Donuts if they decide to sell a plain, unadorned donut, to let their mastery of yeasted dough speak for itself.

Michael Hall ‘19 is an Economics and Hispanic Studies double major from Savannah, Georgia. He can be reached for comment at mahall@davidson.edu

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